Pizza Techniques from High Gluten Flour

Several months ago I got some high gluten flour from GFS Marketplace. It isn’t the same brand as the one pictured, but I’m not sure if brand matters? I finally got a chance to try it out a week ago. Since I got a 25 pound bag, I have plenty to experiment with, but I haven’t deviated from my original recipe yet. I’m just trying to get a consistent crust.

Cooking Methods

With basic bread flour I’ve tried pizzas on a pizza stone with cornmeal, a deep dish pan with shortening or extra virgin olive oil, and a perforated pan. I can’t seem to get the ones in an oiled pan to be as crispy as I’ve liked, almost like it’s not cooked in the same amount of time. Perhaps the temperature needs to be higher. The texture of the ones cooked in cornmeal seem like the most professional.

High Gluten

The high gluten flour wasn’t much harder to knead than I was used to (I was warned it would be tougher since the gluten strands develop more). It also wasn’t much harder to roll out. I’ve learned to be more patient and let it rest and get up to room temperature after its retardation time in the fridge. I’m now trying to spin the dough to help spread it out, but for some reason it gets oblong shaped and I’m not sure how to correct that except with hand pressing and a rolling pin. I have a nice 2 sided rolling pin that seems to work really well. I’ll blog about that one and my other utensils in a future post.

Gluten-Free Pizza Recipe Trend

When I first heard about gluten-free pizza dough, I was thinking this is just another trend that will die out in a few months. I also felt very bad for anyone who normally can’t eat pizza!! Why is it that some people can’t eat pizza dough?

Celiac Disease or Gluten Intolerance

About 2.88 million or 1 in 133 Americans have celiac disease, also known as gluten intolerance. This means that the villi that line their small intestines get damaged from eating gluten, found in wheat, barley, and rye. A good article about the disease can be found here.

Recipes and Products Available

The 2011 International Pizza Expo offered more information on gluten-free products than ever before: gluten-free flour, pizza crusts, and recipes. The recipes are made with rice, potato and corn flours, guar or xanthan gums and/or tapioca/cassava starch. The dough is more like a thick batter and must be cooked differently. As more attention is paid to the issues, more options become available for the crust recipe so that it is more like traditional crusts instead of the texture of a cracker, as it has previously been. (Source)

Are you gluten intolerant or know of someone who is? How does it change your diet?

Science of Pizza Dough Rising

Fermentation

Fermentation is the conversion of carbohydrates to alcohols and carbon dioxide, by yeast or other bacteria. It happens in alcoholic drinks, bread, and pizza dough! It gives breads and doughs the light, airy texture and a slightly sour taste. So what happens to pizza dough during this process?

  • Mixing/Kneading
    During this stage, you mix together ingredients such as water, flour, yeast, and salt. Two proteins in the flour (gliaden and glutenin) begin to connect together and form an elastic network called gluten. Some flours have a higher ‘gluten’ content which supposedly make for a great texture and taste in the dough. But it also means it is very elastic and hard to roll or stretch out.
  • First Rise
    After kneading, the dough is left to rise for about an hour. This is when fermentation occurs, creating carbon dioxide bubbles, and the dough may double in size. The gluten network continues to develop.
  • Second Rise/Proof
    The dough can be punched down and shaped into a ball or loaf for a second rise time. This allows fermentation to continue and gluten structure to develop further. This process should take place in a cold place such as a refrigerator, because higher temperatures allow the carbon dioxide to develop too quickly and produce undesirable flavors. Although you don’t need a second rise for a basic pizza recipe, it may result in a more floury or bread-like taste. This process of placing the dough in a cold environment is called retardation.
  • Baking
    The dough is then rolled out and put in the oven. When it hits the warm temperature, the air bubbles start to expand, making the dough inflate. At some point the dough reaches maximum expansion and the structure solidifies and you can see the bread-like structure.

Source: Slice Serious Eats – how long to let dough rise

As there are so many variables to consider, it can be hard to get a consistent pizza every time you make one. I think the biggest challenge for me is the variable temperature of my electric oven. It’s also frustrating to try to roll out the pizza when it shrinks back so much. What are your suggestions?

Difference Between Bread Dough vs Pizza Dough

I got out our bread maker the other day and was wondering how making bread differs from making pizza dough. It turns out that the recipe it called for was very similar to the one I’ve been using for pizza dough: 3/4 cup water, 4 tsp sugar, and 2 1/4 cups flour; 1 tsp salt vs. 1/2 tsp salt; 4 tsp oil vs. 1 tsp olive oil; 1.5 teaspoons active dry yeast vs. 1 tsp. Instead of kneading and rising one time, the process for the bread machine is:
1st Knead: 10 min; 1st Rise 20 min; 2nd knead 15 min; 2nd Rise 20 min; rest 30 sec; Final rise 55 min; bake time 60 min. I’m not sure what temperature it bakes at, but I can be pretty sure it’s not 475 degrees like pizza. Probably only 325 or 350.

Water Percentage and Ratio

A quick search for pizza dough vs bread dough resulted in a couple articles:
Dough Ingredients – talks about the ratio of water to flour weight as a percentage. Bread has 58 to 60 percent water (moist), while pizza dough is ‘lean’ and has 40 to 60 percent water. 40 percent would result in a stiff dough. A TalkFood forum I found mentions that you can add milk, eggs, or butter to bread to tenderize it, which aren’t used for pizza dough.

Well, I tried the basic white bread recipe on the basic setting, not dough setting. But I think it mixed the dough better than my Kitchenaid mixer! The kneading blade is on the bottom, so it didn’t miss any on the bottom; and the dough pulled away from the sides better – I didn’t have to open it up and scrape down the sides! Maybe being enclosed helped, and the lack of humidity in my kitchen is affecting the pizza dough kneading process. I’ve noticed that kneading by hand removes a lot of moisture, and in the mixing bowl it seems to keep a lot of the moisture and require much more flour. Perhaps using the bread maker will be a happy medium.

Fresh Baked White Bread

Water Hardness

The first article talks about the effect of water hardness or softness. The minerals calcium and magnesium found in water help to strengthen gluten strands. Soft water doesn’t have enough minerals and results in soft, sticky dough. Hard water has too many minerals and results in too tough gluten, and also can hinder the rise of the dough. You can counteract it by adding more yeast and more yeast food (sugar). I’m not sure what my water hardness is, it may be beneficial to test it.

Ingredients Affect Yeast

My bread maker instructions explain about the effect of sugar and salt, and other ingredients on yeast too. Salt regulates yeast by making it work more slowly; without it the dough could rise too fast and unevenly.

The Foundation of Pizza – How to make the dough!

There is both an art and science to making pizzas, especially concerning the dough. Two people could follow the same recipe and still come up with vastly different results.  I’ve recently started making my own dough at home, and I’m lucky to even see the same result twice!  Things you’ll need to think about are: the type of flour, yeast/flour/water ratio, method and duration of kneading, duration of rising, retarding and proofing, method of rolling out the dough, type of pan used, temperature of oven, and baking time.

First, here is a basic recipe for a 14″ pizza dough.

3/4 c. warm water (105-115 degrees F)
4 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. regular olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. active dry yeast
2 1/4-3 c. flour

Mix the sugar, olive oil, salt, and yeast in the warm water. Let sit for a few minutes for the yeast to activate.
Add about 2 1/4 cups flour and mix with a spoon until everything starts to hold together.
Knead by hand or stand mixer for 15 minutes, adding flour or water as necessary so that it is somewhat sticky but does not stick to your hands (your hands should remain relatively clean).
Form dough into a ball and place in bowl. Cover with a towel and let rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
When it is about doubled in size, punch back down and form into a ball.
Place in fridge, loosely covered, for 1-2 days. This is called retarding the dough. You can use a tupperware container, or put in a plastic bag and fold the open end underneath the dough ball. If pressed for time, you can skip this step.
It is now ready to be rolled out, covered with toppings, and baked.

Things to consider:

  • If you use Instant dry yeast instead of active dry, it does not need to be activated and you won’t need as much – about 3/4 tsp.
  • It’s less laborious to use a mixer to knead, but it’s been my experience that it’s hard to monitor the consistency of water/flour ratio, and seems that it takes more flour to prevent it from being too sticky. Occasionally you’ll need to stop the mixer to re-form dough into a ball and scrape the sides, especially if you don’t mix the water and flour before adding to the mixer.  A fair amount of the flour seemed to stay on the side of the bowl. I would almost recommend mixing it by hand for a little bit until you get close to the right consistency, then use the mixer to do the heavy kneading.
  • You can place the dough in a gallon size ziploc bag and fold the open end underneath itself as it rises for an hour to hour and a half. Keep in a warm place (cover with a towel).
  • The length of time the dough is in the fridge can affect the amount it rises in the oven. 6-8 hours should work well to allow the gluten to strengthen and develop, but not exhaust it. See this article at SeriousEats.com for an excellent explanation.
  • After retardation, you can let it defrost at room temperature for up to an hour before rolling out and baking.

Please comment with your advice on the first step of making dough!